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 engine crane and stands recommendations?

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T O P I C    R E V I E W
thesaabologistPosted - 01 Jan 2011 : 23:06:37
Might pull my v4 out shortly and am wondering whether to purchase an engine crane

First question what is the weight of a V4 without a box? Second question -do I need a stand or is a wood pallet ok?

Any recommendations of makes and models of cranes and stands? Do's and don'ts?

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1974 Sonett III
15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
mellePosted - 07 Aug 2018 : 06:44:24
FYI: some blocks use M8x1.25 bolts for the engine side mounts (with spacers because all mounting brackets have 10mm holes).

www.saabv4.com
WoodyPosted - 06 Aug 2018 : 21:33:41
M10x1.5 pitch using the three block extrusions. I wouldn't trust to use the holes for engine support fixing because the bolts are too small, and may not take the strain with a full engine supported on one side only.
v4adminPosted - 05 Aug 2018 : 09:09:59
thanks, I have an engine hoist so no problem lifting to the right level. I want to attach at the side to start with so assume just remove the engine mount (3 bolts) and use those holes to attach then?
Wonky doorPosted - 04 Aug 2018 : 20:35:32
I have a Clarke engine stand which has been a good investment. Cant remember the bolt sizes we just rooted in the bolt box but they are the same as the engine mount bolts I think. It is worth thinking about what jobs you want to do as where you fix the engine affects this. Splitting the gearbox off and refixing it hasnt been a huge issue as access is good out of the car. I have an old fashioned one ton block and tackle for lifting fixed to the garage beam. Obviously that needs a decent beam. We just roll the car away and lower the engine/gearbox to the stand. It is good to have it at a comfortable working height.
v4adminPosted - 28 Jul 2018 : 12:41:21
I invested in a stand and planning to attach the engine on the side. Mine looks something like Woody's so I am going to need some long bolts to attach it. Any clues as to what thread size I need and which bolt holes to use on the side of the block?
john-saabPosted - 08 Jan 2011 : 20:02:56
My manual says the engine with carb and electrical equipment weighs approx 265lb or 120kg...can't find a weight for the gear box but i would say about 40kg-ish
RE the leg width..measure the distance between your wheels.
thesaabologistPosted - 08 Jan 2011 : 19:17:05
what is the max width between feet for one to fit (is it the track or a smaller size)?

Aslo - what is the weight of a v4 engine and box?

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1974 Sonett III
john-saabPosted - 07 Jan 2011 : 14:23:01
Hello and welcome Dudley..and a good point i forgot about. My Current Draper hoist just fits but one i hired a long time back did'nt..i turned the wheels inside out and that worked but i didn't like doing it.
thesaabologistPosted - 07 Jan 2011 : 12:43:20
quote:
Originally posted by Dudley96
I bought a crane to remove my engine, but the front (long) legs wouldn't fit inside the wheels. It worked but not easy working alone. They are designed for modern cars with wider track. So look for one with adjustable arms. I've sold it as I've moved to a single garage and didn't have the storage space, so its back to a chain hoist.



Good point.

A decent new crane seems to retail somewhere between 140-250. Useable second hand one seem to be 60-90. Does that seem right?

---------------
1974 Sonett III
n/aPosted - 07 Jan 2011 : 10:26:27
I bought a crane to remove my engine, but the front (long) legs wouldn't fit inside the wheels. It worked but not easy working alone. They are designed for modern cars with wider track. So look for one with adjustable arms. I've sold it as I've moved to a single garage and didn't have the storage space, so its back to a chain hoist.
BorstlapPosted - 06 Jan 2011 : 21:44:47
quote:
Is that difficult with or without gearbox?- was going to change the clutch and was planning to leave the 'box in.

---------------
1974 Sonett III



Yes it is. With the gearbox attached you have to lift the engine out under an angle of more than 45 degrees; shoehorning it in is even worse. I don't think you'll get it out without gearbox. With the bar in place there is just not enough space to separate the engine from the gearbox. It can be done without the bar (I did it once).You'll need a couple of long bolts to align properly to get the engine and gearbox together again. Maybe you know Chris Moberg's description already: http://www.vintagesaab.com/sonett/. Look in the wrenching section. It helped me quite a bit when I took the engine and gearbox out the first time. After the first time I made a frame of steel L-shaped and flat bars that can be screwed onto the engine for hoisting it out. With the chains between the frame and the hoist it is possible to adjust the angle of how the engine will hang under the hoist; very handy. You slip having to support the gearbox. If the exhaust is screwed to the engine by studs, try to remove the lower ones (hope they don't have rusted themselves down ). This way the lower studs won't block the engine on the exhaust when lifting.

Alex
blue95V4Posted - 06 Jan 2011 : 12:06:03
I'd go along with that idea! Removing the starter motor first makes the engine lift so much easier ....

David (96 2T, 260-2 Saabo and a 95 V4, plus a Hirsched 9-3 TiD SW)
pchristyPosted - 06 Jan 2011 : 09:58:17
Don't know about the Sonnet, but on the 96, the engine comes out quite easily without the 'box. Based on 96 experience, I would say don't remove the 'box unless you absolutely have to!



--
Pete
"Duct tape is like the Force: It has a light side and a dark side, and it binds the Universe together!"
thesaabologistPosted - 05 Jan 2011 : 22:25:08
quote:
Originally posted by Borstlap
Saabologist, maybe a bit off-topic but maybe handy to know: if the front bar that runs over the radiator hasn't already been made detachable, do so befor you lift out the engine. It makes it a lot easier to get the engine out and in again.



Is that difficult with or without gearbox?- was going to change the clutch and was planning to leave the 'box in.

---------------
1974 Sonett III
BorstlapPosted - 05 Jan 2011 : 21:50:22
Saabologist, maybe a bit off-topic but maybe handy to know: if the front bar that runs over the radiator hasn't already been made detachable, do so befor you lift out the engine. It makes it a lot easier to get the engine out and in again. Screw down a piece of L-shaped bar under the original one (two vertically and two horizontally placed screws), remove it and then saw away the original bar. This way you won't get distortion.

Alex

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