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 engine crane and stands recommendations?
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blue95V4
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
411 Posts

Posted - 06 Jan 2011 :  12:06:03 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I'd go along with that idea! Removing the starter motor first makes the engine lift so much easier ....

David (96 2T, 260-2 Saabo and a 95 V4, plus a Hirsched 9-3 TiD SW)
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Borstlap
V4 Fanatic

Norway
279 Posts

Posted - 06 Jan 2011 :  21:44:47 Show Profile Reply with Quote
quote:
Is that difficult with or without gearbox?- was going to change the clutch and was planning to leave the 'box in.

---------------
1974 Sonett III



Yes it is. With the gearbox attached you have to lift the engine out under an angle of more than 45 degrees; shoehorning it in is even worse. I don't think you'll get it out without gearbox. With the bar in place there is just not enough space to separate the engine from the gearbox. It can be done without the bar (I did it once).You'll need a couple of long bolts to align properly to get the engine and gearbox together again. Maybe you know Chris Moberg's description already: http://www.vintagesaab.com/sonett/. Look in the wrenching section. It helped me quite a bit when I took the engine and gearbox out the first time. After the first time I made a frame of steel L-shaped and flat bars that can be screwed onto the engine for hoisting it out. With the chains between the frame and the hoist it is possible to adjust the angle of how the engine will hang under the hoist; very handy. You slip having to support the gearbox. If the exhaust is screwed to the engine by studs, try to remove the lower ones (hope they don't have rusted themselves down ). This way the lower studs won't block the engine on the exhaust when lifting.

Alex
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n/a
deleted

60 Posts

Posted - 07 Jan 2011 :  10:26:27 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I bought a crane to remove my engine, but the front (long) legs wouldn't fit inside the wheels. It worked but not easy working alone. They are designed for modern cars with wider track. So look for one with adjustable arms. I've sold it as I've moved to a single garage and didn't have the storage space, so its back to a chain hoist.
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thesaabologist
V4 Fanatic

319 Posts

Posted - 07 Jan 2011 :  12:43:20 Show Profile Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Dudley96
I bought a crane to remove my engine, but the front (long) legs wouldn't fit inside the wheels. It worked but not easy working alone. They are designed for modern cars with wider track. So look for one with adjustable arms. I've sold it as I've moved to a single garage and didn't have the storage space, so its back to a chain hoist.



Good point.

A decent new crane seems to retail somewhere between 140-250. Useable second hand one seem to be 60-90. Does that seem right?

---------------
1974 Sonett III
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john-saab
Administrator

United Kingdom
2675 Posts

Posted - 07 Jan 2011 :  14:23:01 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Hello and welcome Dudley..and a good point i forgot about. My Current Draper hoist just fits but one i hired a long time back did'nt..i turned the wheels inside out and that worked but i didn't like doing it.
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thesaabologist
V4 Fanatic

319 Posts

Posted - 08 Jan 2011 :  19:17:05 Show Profile Reply with Quote
what is the max width between feet for one to fit (is it the track or a smaller size)?

Aslo - what is the weight of a v4 engine and box?

---------------
1974 Sonett III

Edited by - thesaabologist on 08 Jan 2011 19:23:49
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john-saab
Administrator

United Kingdom
2675 Posts

Posted - 08 Jan 2011 :  20:02:56 Show Profile Reply with Quote
My manual says the engine with carb and electrical equipment weighs approx 265lb or 120kg...can't find a weight for the gear box but i would say about 40kg-ish
RE the leg width..measure the distance between your wheels.

Edited by - john-saab on 08 Jan 2011 20:05:35
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v4admin
Forum Admin

United Kingdom
434 Posts

Posted - 28 Jul 2018 :  12:41:21 Show Profile Visit v4admin's Homepage Reply with Quote
I invested in a stand and planning to attach the engine on the side. Mine looks something like Woody's so I am going to need some long bolts to attach it. Any clues as to what thread size I need and which bolt holes to use on the side of the block?
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Wonky door
V4 Beginner

United Kingdom
54 Posts

Posted - 04 Aug 2018 :  20:35:32 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I have a Clarke engine stand which has been a good investment. Cant remember the bolt sizes we just rooted in the bolt box but they are the same as the engine mount bolts I think. It is worth thinking about what jobs you want to do as where you fix the engine affects this. Splitting the gearbox off and refixing it hasnt been a huge issue as access is good out of the car. I have an old fashioned one ton block and tackle for lifting fixed to the garage beam. Obviously that needs a decent beam. We just roll the car away and lower the engine/gearbox to the stand. It is good to have it at a comfortable working height.
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v4admin
Forum Admin

United Kingdom
434 Posts

Posted - 05 Aug 2018 :  09:09:59 Show Profile Visit v4admin's Homepage Reply with Quote
thanks, I have an engine hoist so no problem lifting to the right level. I want to attach at the side to start with so assume just remove the engine mount (3 bolts) and use those holes to attach then?
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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2442 Posts

Posted - 06 Aug 2018 :  21:33:41 Show Profile Reply with Quote
M10x1.5 pitch using the three block extrusions. I wouldn't trust to use the holes for engine support fixing because the bolts are too small, and may not take the strain with a full engine supported on one side only.

Edited by - Woody on 06 Aug 2018 21:37:00
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2831 Posts

Posted - 07 Aug 2018 :  06:44:24 Show Profile Visit melle's Homepage Reply with Quote
FYI: some blocks use M8x1.25 bolts for the engine side mounts (with spacers because all mounting brackets have 10mm holes).

www.saabv4.com
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