Author | Topic | |
Ian C V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 239 Posts | Posted - 27 Mar 2011 : 17:01:09
| Finally got round to removing the rear screen from my 96 today to find I've a rather unfortunate problem. I knew there had been water ingress as it was visible to the exterior but now I've cleaned it up it's not pretty.
Anyone any ideas.....?
I could well do without trying to cut that whole section out and fabricate something, it's still really strong just a little 'holey'. |
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transit80 V4 Mad
United Kingdom 775 Posts | Posted - 27 Mar 2011 : 20:11:04
| You are going to need new metal in there Ian,waste of time just filling it( if you are going to keep it),maybe get the panel off a scrapper??
Chris | |
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Ian C V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 239 Posts | Posted - 27 Mar 2011 : 21:51:07
| Where the hell am I going to put the join Chris? | |
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ratty V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 340 Posts | Posted - 27 Mar 2011 : 23:57:57
| Sand blast both sides using one of the small kits available if poss. or sand back so there is no rust.Fill and paint,put screen back and make sure you seal the rubber surround to stop the ingress of water. Job done, will last for years and you will probably make a better job than they did in the factory originally! | |
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Ian C V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 239 Posts | Posted - 28 Mar 2011 : 06:28:00
| To be honest that's what I was thinking. I've absolutely no idea where I could possibly put a join and the metal that's left is still really solid. I was thinking about stripping properly, treating, filling and then many coats of paint before top coat.
Would there be any point putting some drain holes in?
It looked like someone had tried to silicon the screen at the top previously, when it goes back in it will be done properly.
Luckily the front one is rock solid where they can often go in the corners. | |
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rsimps V4 Guru
United Kingdom 1616 Posts | Posted - 28 Mar 2011 : 07:29:30
| No point with drain holes, but seal it in after with some mastick. If you weld in there you will need to fill and repaint the rear section underneath as it will distort to some degree, I would have put the joint on the inner fold line, so the outer fold gives some strength to limit distortion. | |
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Derek V4 Guru
United Kingdom 2192 Posts | Posted - 28 Mar 2011 : 10:46:13
| Fine fibreglass cloth soaked in POR-15 will seal up the underside. Fill the outside with? Maybe something like JB Weld? Very hard and can be ground to shape OK. If the lip ends up a bit crinkly use Fg veil/ultrafine with the POR-15 to straighten it up. Arbomast is a good sticky mastic for the refit. | |
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melle V4 Guru
United Kingdom 3833 Posts | Posted - 31 Mar 2011 : 18:10:40
| How about soldering the holes?
1970 Saab 96V4 "The Devil's Own V4" 1974 Saab 95V4 1977 Saab 95V4 van conversion project | |
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rsimps V4 Guru
United Kingdom 1616 Posts | Posted - 01 Apr 2011 : 07:41:16
| Or Devcon f or something. | |
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RKM V4 Beginner
95 Posts | Posted - 27 Jul 2011 : 10:24:48
| Frankly, I'd clean it up, drill the holes to make them a little larger and lead-load the area, prior to priming and painting.
R | |
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Ian C V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 239 Posts | Posted - 30 Jul 2011 : 22:55:05
| The whole section has been cut out and a modified new section (from a VW spe*****t) welded in. | |
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Woody V4 Guru
United Kingdom 2764 Posts | Posted - 31 Jul 2011 : 09:46:31
| Chalk board paint for the parcel shelf or cover it with leatherette. | |
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Ian C V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 239 Posts | Posted - 31 Jul 2011 : 11:41:09
| quote: Originally posted by Woody Chalk board paint for the parcel shelf or cover it with leatherette.
The body shop broke it getting it out so I've got to cut a new one. I've bought some black carpet that I've now fitted (proper gel backed car stuff) and luckily the offcut is just wide enough to cover so I'm going to use that and a new bit of ply. | |
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