| Author |  Topic  |
deggsie
V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom
432 Posts |  Posted - 04 Dec 2018 : 22:28:29  
| Hi all
Having a spare gearbox awaiting a rebuild, I've been following this and earlier discussions about availability of bearings (particularly the SKF 240426) with interest.
I've been exchanging emails (in English) with Simon G. at 123bearings and thought I'd share the (positive ?) results with you:
He says the SKF 240426 they stock is a "Double Row Angular Contact Ball Bearing (Split Inner Race). It does have a groove on the O.D but it is NOT a Snap Ring Groove. The groove is much much wider than a snap ring groove. Sizes - 25 x 62 x 25.4mm. Currently used in Porsche/VW gearboxes."
I then sent him a copy of the photos which John-Saab posted in another thread and Simon says(!) "It is indeed the same as the one in your photo".
The price he has quoted me (including delivery and VAT) is 180.76 Euros - quite steep, but if it IS a genuine 240426 ..... ?
I am tempted to give it a go, but would welcome views (and better still, an old bearing to compare with) - what do the Saabing cognoscenti think ??
Derek
___________________________
Saab - beyond the conventional ! |
Edited by - deggsie on 04 Dec 2018 22:30:08 |  |
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greg124
V4 Fan
United Kingdom
173 Posts | Posted - 05 Dec 2018 : 01:02:20
| | Ouch! that sounds very expensive for a bearing | |
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green96v4
V4 Mad
Canada
738 Posts | |
Souped Up
V4 Beginner
United Kingdom
72 Posts | Posted - 08 Dec 2018 : 16:01:53
| Glad people are enjoying this, I'll keep going.
I've ended up going with a Koyo 3305 NR which has the one piece centre and the snap ring in groove in a different position to the 240426. This was about £50.00 from Simply Bearings.
The ends of the speedo drive and spacer were chewed and worn, I faced them off in the lathe. (they are not Hardened, by the way they cut I think they are something like EN8/080M40). I think they started life at 16mm and 28mm long, after machining they were 0.9mm undersize, I've added 1mm of shims between the spacer and 4th gear.
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They are to the right of the speedo drive spacer in this photo.
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Souped Up
V4 Beginner
United Kingdom
72 Posts | Posted - 08 Dec 2018 : 16:14:09
| I've mostly followed the method in the Haynes manual (also checking Autobooks) to do this but, I didn't like their method of shimming the bearings/end cover.
I clamped a parallel (Hardened ground flat bar) across the gasket face of the cover to measure the 3 bore depths and rested across the bearings to measure how much they protrude from the back of the gearbox. Added 0.010" to the bore depths to allow for the gasket thickness to give the shim dimensions. I bought loads of shims, used one, 2 of the shims were 0.012", exactly as they had been before, the other needed an extra 0.002".
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Souped Up
V4 Beginner
United Kingdom
72 Posts | Posted - 08 Dec 2018 : 16:19:00
| The spacer behind the circlip isn't shown in Haynes or Autobooks, they do both show a possible shim behind the gear at the other end of the counter shaft, this caused me to build it wrong first time round.
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Souped Up
V4 Beginner
United Kingdom
72 Posts | Posted - 08 Dec 2018 : 16:29:27
| I had to improvise lots of this.
Using the Bellhousing bolted to a workmate as a fixture was a good idea I picked up on here.
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Usual stud and nut drawing tool.
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Large hoof shaped clamp for torqueing.
I guessed the sizes of the 2 detent slugs, Saab tool number 784069
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Souped Up
V4 Beginner
United Kingdom
72 Posts | Posted - 08 Dec 2018 : 16:35:13
| I have a question, I can fit a 0.35mm of feeler gauges down the end of 3rd gear on the primary shaft, everything has been torqued, the gear and syncro slide up and down, can't be right can it, was this the source of some of the noise in 3rd? How much clearance if any?
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fuling
Starting Member
Sweden
32 Posts | Posted - 14 Dec 2018 : 18:00:59
| 0.35mm sounds quite reasonable.
I have never measured.
I do not think the noise is due to clearance. | |
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Souped Up
V4 Beginner
United Kingdom
72 Posts | Posted - 16 Dec 2018 : 18:08:27
| Thanks Fuling, you are correct, the clearance wasn't too much.
Still I did strip it down to add a shim, then stripped it again to remove it. All part of the learning experience.
One little tip I gained from this process is to stick the shaped washer over the circlip on the primary shaft with grease, it stops the washer moving out of position when it's being assembled.
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Souped Up
V4 Beginner
United Kingdom
72 Posts | Posted - 16 Dec 2018 : 18:14:27
| While I was messing about order shims I didn't need, I assembled the diff' and checked the backlash. I didn't worry about trying to get a measurement off the end of the pinion shaft as this certainly not a new gearbox.
I got backlash of between 0.1mm and 0.14mm which is pretty much spot on. It took a few goes to get everything true and square to get repeatable figures.
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Souped Up
V4 Beginner
United Kingdom
72 Posts | Posted - 16 Dec 2018 : 18:22:18
| I had lots of fun trying to re-assemble the springs, plungers and rollers to the freewheel hub. All the jubilee clips, cable ties, rubber bands etc etc. Don't work.
I ended walking about the metal rack and spare parts bin measuring up anything tubular.
The perfect item was the bottom 2/3rds of an Excelsior 328 Talisman twin Berkeley piston, I bored this out on the lathe, milled a slot in it and ended up with a freewheel assembly tool that works.
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Souped Up
V4 Beginner
United Kingdom
72 Posts | Posted - 16 Dec 2018 : 18:24:19
| It's starting to come together, I think?
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melle
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
3833 Posts | |
Derek
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
2190 Posts | Posted - 17 Dec 2018 : 10:56:10
| | What are you using for the locking washer for the pinion nut? Have I described that right? I believe the standard ones fail and the nuts are usually a bit loose on disassembly. Upgraded one from Jack Ashcraft? | |
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| Topic | |
Gearbox rebuild
