| Author |  Topic  |
andydeans3
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
2016 Posts |  Posted - 12 Jan 2019 : 18:45:16  
| Melle
Already got the sills...... 1.5 mm.
From Malbrad, galvanised.
1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro |
Edited by - andydeans3 on 12 Jan 2019 18:46:22 |  |
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greg124
V4 Fan
United Kingdom
173 Posts | Posted - 15 Jan 2019 : 22:12:27
| | Just an idea Andy, have you considered welding a couple of 'captive' nuts to the inside of the new sills before fitting, and drilling a couple of corresponding holes, then you can bolt jacking points on at a later date. These could then be removed periodically for rust inspection/prevention. | |
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andydeans3
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
2016 Posts | Posted - 26 Jan 2019 : 14:56:45
| Greg124
Mmm, that's an idea, or perhaps I could use rivnuts? I've just bought a rivnut tool, with rivnuts to be able to fit the wings without using self tapping screws.
Andy
1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro | |
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Derek
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
2191 Posts | Posted - 26 Jan 2019 : 22:46:59
| | I think Rivnuts will be far too wimpy to stand up to the stress of jacking. That probably goes for the wings as well. | |
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andydeans3
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
2016 Posts | Posted - 27 Jan 2019 : 19:45:34
| Derek.
Aye, you could be right about rivnuts to hold a jacking point on, but I don't see any reason why Rivnuts shouldn't be man enough to hold the wings on.
When I took the wings off for the first time, most of the fixing nuts at the front end were self tappers.
Andy
1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro | |
|
RhysN
V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom
411 Posts | Posted - 28 Jan 2019 : 07:53:53
| If you have a look at what the nuts on the wings (rear I presume) are, then rivnuts are probably a whole lot gutsier. Getting them in the imperial thread might be a challenge :)
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andydeans3
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
2016 Posts | Posted - 05 Feb 2019 : 21:00:56
| Never did get the jacking points, but started the sill job today. Will probably delete the jacking points, as suggested elsewhere.
The old sill that came off was in reasonable condition, but the corrosion around the jacking points, on the inside, was clear to see.
Split layers of corrosion.
The fixing of the jacking points, certainly encourages corrosion around them!
Really happy to find that the inner sills are solid, so should be a good job, which will be finished tomorrow. Then POR 15 on the inside from a spray can, through a long lance, followed by a ton of wax!
I've also found a really good welder.
Welds aluminium and stainless too.
Does mobile work as well, around the area where I live (Fife).
Andy
1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro |
Edited by - andydeans3 on 07 Feb 2019 03:02:16 | |
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Derek
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
2191 Posts | Posted - 06 Feb 2019 : 12:14:04
| | Off the wall, but has anyone considered using an alternative type of jack point, one that it easy to find, and then using the matching jack? VW Beetle maybe? It's just a straight piece of square tube. | |
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melle
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
3833 Posts | |
andydeans3
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
2016 Posts | Posted - 07 Feb 2019 : 11:46:32
| We're just going to go ahead and change the sill on other side as well.
Seems daft having a shiny new one on one side, and an old one on the other. The fact that we discovered a crack between the floor, and the inner sill, inside the car, was the clincher!
1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro | |
|
andydeans3
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
2016 Posts | Posted - 12 Feb 2019 : 12:37:28
| Job done. 12 hour marathon, 8 till 2000 hrs, old sill off, again, inner sills in very good condition, new sill on. Plug weld then seam weld all the way along. The sill reached beyond where the crack in the floor edge was, so all good!
Also had to fabricate two patches at the back wheel arch, sill end.
Heating it all now, to fill it first with POR 15 Top coat from a can, with a long diffuser lance, followed later by Bilt Hamber wax on a long diffuser lance. Very fortunately the connection on top of both cans are identical, so the Bilt Hamber diffuser lance (of which I now have 3), can be used to get paint in there first.
£80 for the sills, £300 per side for welding.
1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro |
Edited by - andydeans3 on 04 Mar 2019 07:31:06 | |
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andydeans3
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
2016 Posts | Posted - 12 Feb 2019 : 12:37:49
| | ........... |
Edited by - andydeans3 on 04 Mar 2019 07:30:12 | |
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James Ranaldi
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
1475 Posts | Posted - 13 Feb 2019 : 13:24:28
| Excellent result Andy.
Reasonable costs too
Cheers
James
1968 V4 96 ,LHD
1984 99 GL
1992 C900i Convertible
1993 C900 LPT Convertible | |
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andydeans3
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
2016 Posts | Posted - 09 Mar 2019 : 10:24:25
| I won't be refitting the jacking points.
Made myself a "jacking block" out of wood. I chiseled a recess in the bottom, for the jack to fit into.
Works a treat.
Lower down is a photo that shows the crusty layers of corrosion around the old jacking point. This being a photo of the old sill when it came off.
1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro | |
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| Topic | |
Jacking Points?
