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 Mucho Clutch Travel rqd - Bent fork?
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MARK DRANSFIELD
Starting Member

United Kingdom
47 Posts

Posted - 03 May 2022 :  21:21:12 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I've had my 96 for a year now and done a few hundred miles. When I got the car the clutch needed to be fully pressed (I think almost to the floor) to disengage. Now when I press it to the floor it still remains slightly engaged, and so the old girl is becoming a hard to drive.

On inspection, the clutch slave moves as soon as the clutch pedal is pressed, so it looks like the hydraulics are behaving. After discussions with my local Saab specialist, we've decided to replace the clutch and bearing, and see what we find when we open her up.

From reading old threads, it sounds like the release fork might be the culprit, and I'm thinking of ordering one so that my mechanic has it to hand if needed. (I'm suspecting the fork or clips are bent or collapsing, rather than the holes 'ovaling', because of the speed of deterioration.) Does this sounds like a sensible diagnosis? Anyone know of any other likely causes? Or a good source for a replacement fork?

Thanks,
Mark





--------------------
2008 9-3 Convertible
1975 96 in Green
1957 Austin Metropolitan

Iain G
V4 Fan

United Kingdom
159 Posts

Posted - 04 May 2022 :  06:50:32 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Have you adjusted the arm stop in the bell housing?
You can also put shims behind the slave to reduce slack.
It’s a a bit of a fudge but you might get a few more years out of the clutch.
Lots of us have done this down the years.
If you do end up fitting new clutch you must make absolutely sure it is set-up correctly otherwise you will be in the same trouble as now.

Iain G
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
3833 Posts

Posted - 04 May 2022 :  08:00:12 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Sounds like a hydraulic rather than a mechanical failure to me. I would suspect the master cylinder.

www.saabv4.com
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EdinburghJoe
V4 Fan

United Kingdom
162 Posts

Posted - 04 May 2022 :  11:41:41 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Hi Mark, you said that the slave started moving as soon as you pressed the pedal (which is a good sign), but does it continue to move in the same proportion throughout the travel of the clutch pedal?

It could be that it appears to work fine when it's just taking up slack at the start of its travel, but as it gets put to work actually disengaging the clutch, load will increase and it might not be moving so well then.

It's just a thought, would be a definite 'win' if you could avoid taking the engine out!

Joe
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MARK DRANSFIELD
Starting Member

United Kingdom
47 Posts

Posted - 04 May 2022 :  11:53:04 Show Profile Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Iain G
Have you adjusted the arm stop in the bell housing?
You can also put shims behind the slave to reduce slack.
It’s a a bit of a fudge but you might get a few more years out of the clutch.
Lots of us have done this down the years.
If you do end up fitting new clutch you must make absolutely sure it is set-up correctly otherwise you will be in the same trouble as now.

Iain G



Thanks Iain,
I've bought a clutch, and got it booked in, so I'll go ahead with the clutch swap as that tidies up a lot of unknowns. I've read up in the Haynes and Brooklands manuals this morning. When you say 'correctly set-up' is there anything else I should get the guys* to do?

(*They're Saab specialists on '99's onwards, and have explained that they're not experienced with V4s.)

I'll try the bellhousing adjustment.
Best Regards,
Mark

--------------------
2008 9-3 Convertible
1975 96 in Green
1957 Austin Metropolitan

Edited by - MARK DRANSFIELD on 04 May 2022 11:56:10
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MARK DRANSFIELD
Starting Member

United Kingdom
47 Posts

Posted - 04 May 2022 :  11:57:03 Show Profile Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by EdinburghJoe
Hi Mark, you said that the slave started moving as soon as you pressed the pedal (which is a good sign), but does it continue to move in the same proportion throughout the travel of the clutch pedal?

It could be that it appears to work fine when it's just taking up slack at the start of its travel, but as it gets put to work actually disengaging the clutch, load will increase and it might not be moving so well then.

It's just a thought, would be a definite 'win' if you could avoid taking the engine out!

Joe



Thanks Joe, I'll check this.

--------------------
2008 9-3 Convertible
1975 96 in Green
1957 Austin Metropolitan
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
3833 Posts

Posted - 04 May 2022 :  12:42:42 Show Profile Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MARK DRANSFIELD
I've bought a clutch, and got it booked in, so I'll go ahead with the clutch swap as that tidies up a lot of unknowns.
...and it'll probably introduce a new issue too. All Sachs/ F&S/ LUK clutch plates from roughly 2010 onward are incorrectly riveted, here's some useful reading: http://www.saab-v4.co.uk/speedball/topic.asp?topic_id=37597&whichpage=2 If you've bought a diaphragm clutch kit this will not be an issue.

www.saabv4.com
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Iain G
V4 Fan

United Kingdom
159 Posts

Posted - 04 May 2022 :  19:44:28 Show Profile Reply with Quote
http://saabjournal.blogspot.com/2014/01/saab-v4-flywheelpressure-plate.html

Coincidentally discussed on Facebook group today and this link explains correct set-up of clutch. Shims between pressure plate and flywheel can achieve correct height.

Iain G
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