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greg124 V4 Fan
United Kingdom 173 Posts | Posted - 20 Nov 2018 : 19:58:54
| When my 96 first arrived I pulled the bonnet release and about a yard of cable came out from under the dash. Had to take the grill off and wrestle the bonnet open. My assumption was that a new cable was needed. Now that I have the 95, it's coming in quite useful for reference purposes. It turns out the screw on nipple had come off the end of the cable and was hiding deep in the front valance. Screwed it back on, shut the bonnet, and again pulled about a yard of cable from under the dash followed by round two of bonnet wrestling. Can anyone advise on the correct adjustment of the release mechanism? |
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UK_Sub V4 Guru
United Kingdom 2555 Posts | Posted - 21 Nov 2018 : 10:02:59
| Make sure the release mechanism in the grill isn't seized. Worth taking it apart, cleaning it adding some grease and putting it back together - that or squirt a load of WD40 at it, whilst working it back and forth until it's easier to operate.
That way you'll use less force on the cable and it shouldn't break free from the mechanism.
Hope that helps, let us know how you get on. | |
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green96v4 V4 Mad
Canada 737 Posts | Posted - 21 Nov 2018 : 12:04:02
| I have found the bar it connects to has to be pulled a fair way back before you attach the cable, it's the smallest of actuations that releases the mechanism and (on mine at least) if the bar isn't "primed" the cable action just moves it back and forth with no releasing action, resulting in me pulling on the cable more and ending up with the yard of cable in the cabin and the merry dance under the front grill you speak of | |
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greg124 V4 Fan
United Kingdom 173 Posts | Posted - 21 Nov 2018 : 15:50:39
| Thank you both.
Dismantled the release mechanism this afternoon, cleaned all the old grease and muck out, and reassembled with fresh grease. It had been installed incorrectly at some time in the past as the actuating rod was attached at the front, whereas the one on the 'reference 95' is attached at the rear. Not working correctly yet, so I'll have a go at priming the bar a bit more | |
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andydeans3 V4 Guru
United Kingdom 1994 Posts | Posted - 22 Nov 2018 : 12:36:33
| Greg If you need a new cable, you can use a gear change cable from the gear system on a bike. That's what I have fitted, works very well. Reference XLC Drum Brake Cable Rear Pear Gazelle 6240/23. SKU: ASD4FBBI9J
I got it from the following shop.
Athleteshop B.V. 13 Freeland Park Wareham Road Poole, Dorset BH16 6FH, UK
I had to make some mods to cabin end, to get it to fit, but it has worked very well.
Andy
1978 LHD SAAB 96 1978 MGB Roadster 2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo 1991 Nissan Figaro | Edited by - andydeans3 on 22 Nov 2018 12:42:09 | |
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UK_Sub V4 Guru
United Kingdom 2555 Posts | Posted - 22 Nov 2018 : 16:07:19
| I've used an aftermarket choke cable in the past - don't ask for it in Halfords though, they had no idea what a 'choke' was :) | |
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andydeans3 V4 Guru
United Kingdom 1994 Posts | Posted - 22 Nov 2018 : 19:24:03
| Simon.
Ha ha, they probably don't know what a carburettor is either.
Andy
1978 LHD SAAB 96 1978 MGB Roadster 2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo 1991 Nissan Figaro | |
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Derek V4 Guru
United Kingdom 2187 Posts | |
greg124 V4 Fan
United Kingdom 173 Posts | Posted - 23 Nov 2018 : 15:28:07
| Thanks guys. I have a spare cable, but I think it may just need a little (more) adjustment | |
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