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 Bonnet release
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greg124
V4 Fan

United Kingdom
173 Posts

Posted - 20 Nov 2018 :  19:58:54 Show Profile Reply with Quote
When my 96 first arrived I pulled the bonnet release and about a yard of cable came out from under the dash. Had to take the grill off and wrestle the bonnet open. My assumption was that a new cable was needed.
Now that I have the 95, it's coming in quite useful for reference purposes. It turns out the screw on nipple had come off the end of the cable and was hiding deep in the front valance. Screwed it back on, shut the bonnet, and again pulled about a yard of cable from under the dash followed by round two of bonnet wrestling.
Can anyone advise on the correct adjustment of the release mechanism?

UK_Sub
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2555 Posts

Posted - 21 Nov 2018 :  10:02:59 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Make sure the release mechanism in the grill isn't seized. Worth taking it apart, cleaning it adding some grease and putting it back together - that or squirt a load of WD40 at it, whilst working it back and forth until it's easier to operate.

That way you'll use less force on the cable and it shouldn't break free from the mechanism.

Hope that helps, let us know how you get on.
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green96v4
V4 Mad

Canada
737 Posts

Posted - 21 Nov 2018 :  12:04:02 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I have found the bar it connects to has to be pulled a fair way back before you attach the cable, it's the smallest of actuations that releases the mechanism and (on mine at least) if the bar isn't "primed" the cable action just moves it back and forth with no releasing action, resulting in me pulling on the cable more and ending up with the yard of cable in the cabin and the merry dance under the front grill you speak of
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greg124
V4 Fan

United Kingdom
173 Posts

Posted - 21 Nov 2018 :  15:50:39 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Thank you both.

Dismantled the release mechanism this afternoon, cleaned all the old grease and muck out, and reassembled with fresh grease.
It had been installed incorrectly at some time in the past as the actuating rod was attached at the front, whereas the one on the 'reference 95' is attached at the rear.
Not working correctly yet, so I'll have a go at priming the bar a bit more
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andydeans3
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1994 Posts

Posted - 22 Nov 2018 :  12:36:33 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Greg
If you need a new cable, you can use a gear change cable from the gear system on a bike. That's what I have fitted, works very well.
Reference
XLC Drum Brake Cable Rear Pear Gazelle 6240/23.
SKU: ASD4FBBI9J

I got it from the following shop.

Athleteshop B.V.
13 Freeland Park
Wareham Road
Poole, Dorset
BH16 6FH, UK

I had to make some mods to cabin end, to get it to fit, but it has worked very well.

Andy

1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro

Edited by - andydeans3 on 22 Nov 2018 12:42:09
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UK_Sub
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2555 Posts

Posted - 22 Nov 2018 :  16:07:19 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I've used an aftermarket choke cable in the past - don't ask for it in Halfords though, they had no idea what a 'choke' was :)
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andydeans3
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1994 Posts

Posted - 22 Nov 2018 :  19:24:03 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Simon.

Ha ha, they probably don't know what a carburettor is either.

Andy

1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro
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Derek
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2187 Posts

Posted - 23 Nov 2018 :  12:16:07 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Try lambretta66@btinternet.com he's breaking cars. See parts for sale.
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greg124
V4 Fan

United Kingdom
173 Posts

Posted - 23 Nov 2018 :  15:28:07 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Thanks guys. I have a spare cable, but I think it may just need a little (more) adjustment
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