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 Intermittent ignition cut out
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GeoffC
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
482 Posts

Posted - 22 Mar 2021 :  12:45:30 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I'm running out of ideas here so any further suggestions welcome! My Sonett has recently developed an annoying ignition cut out problem. It's just like I've turned the ignition off and then back on again. It doesn't last long but doesn't fill me with confidence to stray too far from home! I have checked coil leads, back of the alternator and the ignition switch but found no loose connections. I have bought new plug leads and that's made no difference either. I have an Acuspark electronic ignition which has been on for several years so am wondering whether it's that as the car doesn't start as instantly as when I first fitted it. So my plan is to buy a new one and hope that solves the problem (I no longer have the points and condenser so can't try that), however if anybody has any other ideas that would help or experienced similar would be great to hear them. I've ruled out fuel as it's instantaneous and the rev counter cuts instantly as well.

Dynorog
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
239 Posts

Posted - 22 Mar 2021 :  17:59:04 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I had a problem on a Mini like that years ago. I had tried everything.With help of an old polish mechanic I knew, he shoved a piece of fag packet behind the LT terminal of the coil. Problem solved.
The terminal was rocking where it attached to the coil. You never know.
Cheers

Dynorog
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GeoffC
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
482 Posts

Posted - 22 Mar 2021 :  18:02:23 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Well I'll give it a try tomorrow!
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
3343 Posts

Posted - 22 Mar 2021 :  18:17:53 Show Profile Reply with Quote
There's a braided earth lead on the base plate of the distributor that sometimes works its way loose, which can cause intermittent issues.

www.saabv4.com

Edited by - melle on 22 Mar 2021 18:18:12
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GeoffC
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
482 Posts

Posted - 22 Mar 2021 :  18:54:00 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Ah OK Melle I know what you mean I'll check that as well.
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EdinburghJoe
V4 Fan

United Kingdom
119 Posts

Posted - 22 Mar 2021 :  20:43:09 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I had a similar problem, tried lots of things and I never really knew what the fault was, but one fix was to remove the actual switch from the ignition (easily done, two screws holds it on from behind) and give it a squirt of Servisol switch cleaner, while working the switch with a screwdriver. It flowed out mucky to start, so there was maybe some carbon on the contacts inside.
It was a tricky problem and I tried lots of things, but this one one of the most plausible solutions.

Good luck!
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EdinburghJoe
V4 Fan

United Kingdom
119 Posts

Posted - 22 Mar 2021 :  20:55:09 Show Profile Reply with Quote
PS, disconnect the battery before going anywhere near the switch!
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GeoffC
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
482 Posts

Posted - 22 Mar 2021 :  21:15:40 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Ok a few things to look at tomorrow, thanks for the suggestions
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GeoffC
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
482 Posts

Posted - 23 Mar 2021 :  15:36:20 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I checked the LT coil terminals and replaced the spade connectors but there was no change in running when I waggled them so eliminated that possibility. I then took the cap off the dizzy and found that the braided wire was only connected by one or two strands at the casing end! So although the soldered joints were OK there isn't much wire left and it is likely to break at any moment - thanks Melle you might be right!!
So my next question is it possible to replace that wire with ordinary insulated wire or should it have braided to cope with the adv/retard movement? I also have a concern that my soldering iron won't provide enough heat to secure the ends (looks like it would be a big heat sink) so maybe I need to change the distributor although I haven't a spare. Just wondered if anybody had had the same problem - any thoughts?
Of course that might not fix the first problem but I obviously can't leave it and it probably won't help running anyway so seems like the first place to start.

Sorry the pic isn't too clear but I think you can see there isn't much left hanging on!
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Borstlap
V4 Fanatic

Norway
301 Posts

Posted - 23 Mar 2021 :  16:03:50 Show Profile Reply with Quote
My guess is that braided cable is used because of flexibillity and less resistance to motion. A standard cable with thicker wires is probably stiffer which could affect advance.

Alex
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GeoffC
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
482 Posts

Posted - 23 Mar 2021 :  16:15:24 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I agree Alex that would make sense.
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Dynorog
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
239 Posts

Posted - 23 Mar 2021 :  17:57:54 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I had the same problem . Fortunately an Auto electrician lives opposite me and he replaced it for me in 10 mins. He carried the braided stuff on his van.
I would image in wouldnt cost much to have it done.
It hadnt affected the running of the car though.
Cheers


Dynorog

Edited by - Dynorog on 23 Mar 2021 18:00:20
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SAAB96L
V4 Beginner

United Kingdom
99 Posts

Posted - 23 Mar 2021 :  18:03:52 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Hello Geoff,

Although the Distributor Doctor (Martin Jay) covers 99% Lucas in the main, it may be worth a call asking about the braided link. In addition he might be able to offer a replacement along with advice as to connecting. He is a helpful chap, but do bear in mind he does not usually touch anything but Lucas; that said worth a call. http://www.distributordoctor.com/

Regards.

Richard.
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GeoffC
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
482 Posts

Posted - 23 Mar 2021 :  18:53:30 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Ok thanks for the comments it may not solve the problem but needs doing urgently anyway. I'll see if I can source some cable locally or find a local auto-electrician.
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GeoffC
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
482 Posts

Posted - 23 Mar 2021 :  23:15:14 Show Profile Reply with Quote
As I suspected soldering is not really possible without special flux and a lot of heat. The original is spot welded. I could try bodging (screw terminals maybe) but would always worry it's going to let me down so I may need a replacement distributor.
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GeoffC
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
482 Posts

Posted - 23 Mar 2021 :  23:28:09 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Just had a thought - as I have the Acuspark ignition fitted, does it actually need the braided earth wire?! Obviously with points it completes the circuit but with the electronic ignition the switching signal is just the Hall effect off the cam lobe. Maybe back to looking elsewhere? I hate vehicle electrics when the play up! Loose connection faulty earth could be anywhere!!!!
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