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 Still having gearchange problems...
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Jimmys old Saab
V4 Beginner

United Kingdom
98 Posts

Posted - 25 May 2021 :  18:19:17 Show Profile Reply with Quote
OK, so I've adjusted the side mounted engine and gearbox stays back and forth and found a medium where I could select all four forward gears.
I took the Saab for a brief run and a bit notchy but all gears fine. Then I climbed a steep driveway and swung the car around and could no longer select ANY gears without baulking.
The driveway is steep and I wonder if turning onto it twisted the car in some way? Gears select fine with engine off but just baulk now with the car running.
I had a good poke around the gears linkage and notice that there is a fair bit of lateral play where the rod goes through a steel cup and nylon bush in the driver's footwell. If you grab the linkage in the engine bay, with the box in neutral you can pull the whole linkage from side to side 8 or 10mm. I think my next approach should be to remove the whole gear rod and linkage, replace the nylon bush or use an appropriate bearing and clean and check over the UJs.
I'm hoping that there is nothing wrong with the synchromesh in the box, as I said the car drove fine for a while, the lateral play in that rod seems like the culprit. Has anyone done this job before?

Saab 96 1971
Datsun 120y coupe 1975
Saab 9000 CSE turbo 1993
VW T5 LWB 2012

melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
3342 Posts

Posted - 29 May 2021 :  20:22:52 Show Profile Reply with Quote
From experience, most gear change change issues are in fact clutch issues (usually a worn clutch release fork), although the crappy linkage design perhaps compounds the problem in RHD cars.

www.saabv4.com
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Jimmys old Saab
V4 Beginner

United Kingdom
98 Posts

Posted - 06 Jun 2021 :  15:52:40 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Well I've replaced the clutch slave and now have a reliable gear change. Took the Saab for a drive earlier and all good.
The slave on mine had been tampered with, at some point someone had, I think damaged the mounting thread at it's rear. They had then bored out the thread and put a helicoil in. In doing so they had drilled right through into the inside of the cylinder, so it was leaking and never working quite 100%.
There is no doubt that the Sachs clutch requires the hydraulics to be tip top, I also used a pair of copper washers behind the slave to gain a bit more travel and hence a deeper clutch movement. Whether that is because of the Sachs clutch plate being shallower or the release bearing being thinner I don't know. I also tried putting a sleeve over the clutch pin attatched to the fork at one point, in order to get a deeper clutch movement. That gained about 10mm, far too much, the clutch worked but with the pedal to the floor the edge of the clutch fork contacted with the fly wheel.
So that's the deal with the Sachs clutch, it will work with some effort but is not straightforward. The clutch I took out of the car was the same Sachs type, so it looks like this problem has been the case for a long time.

Saab 96 1971
Datsun 120y coupe 1975
Saab 9000 CSE turbo 1993
VW T5 LWB 2012
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
3342 Posts

Posted - 06 Jun 2021 :  16:14:11 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Good to hear you got it fixed!

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