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 Help, on holiday, notchy/impossible gear change
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andydeans3
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1550 Posts

Posted - 08 Sep 2014 :  07:40:38 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Andy

Not really.
I went back to work on the 4th of August, and am only just back a couple of days ago.
I immediately wipped the radiator out to have it re-cored in Dundee, so I have no update from what I said on the 2nd of August.
I am thinking that after what Sweedspeed said, and the amount of play that I have on the shaft going into the gearbox, that the problem may lie there. I have a spare gearbox, and I'm wondering if the top plate, which contains the shaft bearing, can be removed, and replaced, with everything in situ?

One thing for sure, though, no selection issues with the engine off....
Might drop in and see you one day. You work away from home as well I think?
Perhaps send me a PM with your phone number, and I'll give you a call?

Andy



1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
3388 Posts

Posted - 08 Sep 2014 :  10:46:41 Show Profile Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by andydeans3
I'm wondering if the top plate, which contains the shaft bearing, can be removed, and replaced, with everything in situ?
I'm afraid not...

1970 96V4 "The Devil's Own V4"
1977 95V4 van conversion project
1988 900i 8V
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Andyinthegarage
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
361 Posts

Posted - 08 Sep 2014 :  18:35:48 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Hi Andy,

pm sent.
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ratty
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
281 Posts

Posted - 06 Aug 2021 :  12:24:58 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Andy, did you get to the bottom of your gear selection problem?
I still can't get forward gears, all of them so have taken car off the road and about to to remove top
gr/box gr/change cover in situ. Funnily enough I can get reverse.


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andydeans3
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1550 Posts

Posted - 10 Aug 2021 :  03:36:16 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Nigel
I've nothing more to add really. The garage found some play in the pins of the knuckle joint. I'd have to go and look at my "log book", but I think my gearbox has been changed twice since 2015. I always have a refurbished one "ready to go", and I'm sure I changed it in 2015, and certainly changed it again in January 2020, just before the pandemic hit.

Reading through the whole thread again, quite few people talked about adjusting the gearbox stay, well the LHD cars don't have that gearbox stay.

For your problem I would think it's something to do with the adjustment of the steering column. It's very finicky, and "suck it and see".
I just remembered, last year, or maybe the year before, I started having some small gear change issues, and fixed it by slackening those bolts under the column, pushing the column as far down as it would go, and hey presto, problem gone.
I'm not sure that you can get that gearbox top cover off with the whole caboodle in place.
Where do you live? I'll come and give you a hand.

1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro

Edited by - andydeans3 on 10 Aug 2021 03:39:11
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ratty
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
281 Posts

Posted - 12 Aug 2021 :  10:54:28 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Andy thanks for coming back. I have not taken the lid off yet with gr/box in situ. Putting that off as a last resort. I have to keep reminding myself that these cars are all about 50 years old with appropriate wear and tear, and parts do wear. The top white nylon bush connected to the gear lever can and does wear. John Saab had similar problems to us, he swapped everything for better or new with no luck until he swapped the steering column and gear lever then everything was back to normal, as it should be. So I have decided to check and renew steering column/gr/change first. Took gear lever off last night, one threaded bolt, and nylon bush was cracked. So a new or good as has to be renewed in place. Luckily I have a spare one which should be ok. I am having new pins made up, both ends for universal joint so that should be like new and will try again. I am also going to jack the front of the car up and have someone run the car, dip clutch and attempt to change gear by hand using the u/j joint. See what happens there! The things we have to do to keep our old girls going.

nigel martin-oakley
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andydeans3
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1550 Posts

Posted - 23 Aug 2021 :  12:58:52 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Just realise that you live in Devon, so I guess I won't be nipping down from Fife, to give you a hand!!!
Andy

1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro
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ratty
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
281 Posts

Posted - 08 Sep 2021 :  13:03:22 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Have finally got to the bottom of problem of not being able to select forward gears. So without removing steering column from the car, after changing top and bottom plastic bush in column change, a tricky job which you need to think through from start to finish; read Haynes manual and follow to the word. Most important is that you put a spare rod through reverse gear change spring unit otherwise it will fly off and is a pig to put back. This made no difference. Put a better u/j joint on with a lot less play, still no better. Next have a look inside top of gr/box. So without removing gr/box removed steering rack or rather unbolted it and managed to get all bolts off top lid. Inspected gear selector rod etc and everything looked very good. Could select gears ok by hand, so put that all back. So what next? Well I could always select reverse, but not forward gears or all the gears with synchromesh. So thought what about the oil? I have been using Millers nano oil. Type CRX70/90 NT, gli-5. State of the art oil, v. expensive at 60.00 to 70.00 for 5 litres. For doing my classic trialling I thought it was ideal so phoned up Millers tech. dept. and explained my problem. When did you last change the oil? Err 7 years ago but explained the car had only done about 2000 miles and had been laid up for nearly 4 years. One fact about modern synthetic oils is that they don't have a long shelf life once opened or in the gr/box. So guess what, took Ratty for a run in 2nd gear warmed it up and drained. Oil wasn't a bad colour, bit of fine brassy looking particles, plus usual steely bits you get with wear and tear. Also found a bit of bearing cage broken. B....r. That means after all this gr/box will have to come out for a strip down. Put 2 litres of Millers back in and all the gears are back again! The moral to this is change your gr/box oil and if it is synthetic every 2 to 3 years, whatever. It seems old fashioned mineral oils don't deteriorate like synthetics. I have had a deep grumbling bearing for quite a while. Was convinced it was a wheel bearing ,well no it is a pinion bearing or diff cage bearing. On strip down it will be interesting to see if synchro rings are worn at all. In 40 years plus have never had a synchro problem. Is anyone on the forum using synthetic gli-5 oil in their gr/box?
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christophe
V4 Fan

France
123 Posts

Posted - 08 Sep 2021 :  22:04:41 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I currently have Redline synthetic oil into my gearbox. Put it there one year ago and no side effects so far. At least none than I am aware of! I also used this stuff in my Studebaker Hawk since ten years. The gearbox is fine and I only top the level from time to time.
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green96v4
V4 Mad

Canada
610 Posts

Posted - 09 Sep 2021 :  12:09:39 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I've just filled mine after a rebuild using Amsoil 75/90 synthetic (recommended by Jack Ashcraft on this side of the pond) much thinner than regular dinosaur oil - I've been told to change it after 500 miles due to the extensive rebuild, so I'll see how it looks when I drain it...
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Derek
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2041 Posts

Posted - 09 Sep 2021 :  12:40:23 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Redline MTL is good. Use 2 litres. That is higher than the level plug but measures properly if you use the pukka Saab dipstick.
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