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 Front Brake calipers - very tight to move.

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T O P I C    R E V I E W
andydeans3Posted - 21 Jun 2020 : 19:18:40
I'm in the process of replacing my front discs, and of course took the mechanical part of the calipers off to clean/grease them up around the pivot pin, to make sure that they move easily.

I didn't touch the hydraulics. Piston that was protruding, looked clean, and after applying some brake fluid, went back easily into the cylinder.
Calipers were new in 2016. (65 000 kms/40 000 miles ago)

Caliper mechanicals working well, moving nicely, UNTIL, I locate the sliding part under the spring loaded plate at the top. ie the normal position when fitted to the car.
Then it gets very tight to move. (ie once back on the car a good sized mallet is required, to move the caliper back and forth).
It's as if the gap under the spring is too small for the "tongue", that slides under there. The spring loaded pin doesn't appear to have any adjustment on it.
Perhaps this is normal?
Should I file the "tongue" down a bit, so that it slip and slides nicely under the spring loaded pin?

Any input appreciated, before I finish the job tomorrow.

ps the discs were seriously corroded on the inside, but not on the outside. The pads look to be evenly worn, both sides.
These discs were fitted in 2016, and have done about 65 000kms/40 000 miles.


1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro
15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
andydeans3Posted - 31 Aug 2020 : 17:39:09
Derek
Thanks for the link.
I happened to have an M8 Nylok nut lying around. I'm sure it'll be OK,but Westfield look like a good outfit, so I've noted their website address for future reference.

1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro
DerekPosted - 31 Aug 2020 : 11:44:15
You can get no nylon split locking nuts. Sometimes called aerotight nuts. A bit expensive but decent nylocs aren't cheap either.
https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/Metric-Nuts/Aerotight-Nut-M10-A2-Stainless.html?google_shopping=qty_A2_Nut_Aerotight_M10=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwv7L6BRDxARIsAGj-34qO8urD1lzpQWq1EsVn_dD_inNFkyiwp7mwJ8YloJ3yLwsdErrX-KMaAkeGEALw_wcB
andydeans3Posted - 31 Aug 2020 : 07:43:26
Update.
I recently dropped the back axle out the car to do a major "clean up", and refurbishment of the back axle, its various components, and the axle tunnel. (Details on UKSAABS "My Cars" section)
Everything is now back together, and I have also fitted the new Skandix spring assembly to the brake caliper, photos below.
I've used locktite on the threads, locked 2 nuts together, and put a ciclip on the end of the bolt. (bolt and nuts are stainless steel).
ie Belts, and 2 pairs of braces, to ensure the nuts don't come undone.
On one assembly I used two flange nuts, on the other the outer nut is a nylok nut. (I don't think that part of the assmebly will get so hot, so as to affect the plastic)
The assembly does clear the inside of the wheel, by the thickness of my middle finger.

In the vice.


On the car.


1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro
andydeans3Posted - 28 Jun 2020 : 20:03:11
Sounds nasty, though I doubt our southern bretheren know what broon breeks are!!ha ha

I always lock the Freewheel, when going down the north side of the Cairn o' Mount, because it's much steeper.
I forgot once, my brakes were quite literally smoking by the time I got down to Clatterin' Brig.

I fitted a set of those 2mm extended rear brake actuators today. (that Malbrad sell. They compensate for worn drums)
What a difference, I can adjust the brakes now, and still have most of the adjuster still protruding from the backplate. With the standard actuators, the adjusters had almost disappeared inside the backplate!

Andy


1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro
deggsiePosted - 27 Jun 2020 : 23:39:12
Andy
Progressively lost all brakes - I realised something was wrong when the pedal slowly went all the way to the floor. Managed to get some braking effort by pumping the pedal and use of the handbrake. Still had about five miles to get home, thankfully it was a Highland Sunday afternoon so not much traffic (and I was wearing broon breeks).
The Cairn o'Mount, or worse still the Lecht, would be a totally different ball-game !
Derek

___________________________
Saab - beyond the conventional !
andydeans3Posted - 27 Jun 2020 : 22:54:21
Deggsie

Oooh nasty brake failure system story...
Did you lose all your brakes, or just half the split brake system?

Brake failure was in my mind as I was swooping (ie Freewheeling) down the north side of the Cairn o' Mounth yesterday, on my way to Stig's

Andy

1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro
deggsiePosted - 27 Jun 2020 : 22:13:15
quote:
I need me SAAB to stop when I hit the brakes!!!
Where's the fun in that ? A couple of years ago I was coming back from a Drive-it Day meet in Sutherland, down a moderate brae with the freewheel engaged, when the brake master cylinder failed - now that's 'interesting' !
My spare calipers are also new and the springs/L brackets are just firm enough to hold the sliding section, which is probably what they are intended to do under operating conditions too.
BTW Peening is normally a cold work process, which also serves to harden the material surface.

___________________________
Saab - beyond the conventional !
andydeans3Posted - 27 Jun 2020 : 14:10:31
Derek.
Interestingly I was up at Stig's place in Aberdeen yesterday.
He has, what look like brand new calipers, and the spring/L plate assembly at the top doesn't bear down at all on the the sliding assembly. ie the spring does nothing. The opposite of my calipers.

As for peening the pin over, I've now got one person telling me to heat the pin until cherry red, before peening, and one telling me to peen the pin cold.
It'll be difficult to heat the pin cherry red, without putting a considerable amount of heat into the surrounding metal, which might not be a good thing.......
Any one else have any thoughts on this process?

I want to get it right!
I need me SAAB to stop when I hit the brakes!!!


1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro
DerekPosted - 25 Jun 2020 : 09:25:25
Peening is done cold. Does this pin peen out into a slight countersink or over the sharp edge of the hole? If it doesn't already have one, a very shallow hole drilled into the end of the pin could help with the peening. You need a VERY solid anvil make the peening easier + ball peen hammer, naturally.
andydeans3Posted - 24 Jun 2020 : 17:09:32
Derek
When I say "new" I do mean re-conditioned. Bought from a reputable supplier.
I undestand what you mean, about the pin being re-used, and therefore shorter.
I've ordered a couple of pin/spring/plate kits from Skandix, and will have a go at removing the old pin/spring assembly and fitting new ones.
I have now filed the plates a little, and they are sliding a lot better than they were.

I assume that you have to heat the pin, to peen it?
If so, how do you heat the pin, without heating all the surround metal of the caliper. Perhaps that doesn't matter?
Andy

1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro
christophePosted - 24 Jun 2020 : 10:22:01
quote:
Originally posted by Woody
Hi Christophe, What sort of noise are you getting when you are reversing?



Hello Woody,
I usually get a slight clunk from the front right wheel. Also, the brakes tend to screech a little when hot. They are working perfectly otherwise. I know I also have to replace the brake hoses, so a dismantling is in the future. This brake setup with wedged brake pads was a new one to me. I never saw this one before.
Nice day to all.
DerekPosted - 24 Jun 2020 : 10:15:34
"Callipers were new in 2016." New as in reconditioned? Pin may have been reused. The original peened over material removed when taking out the pin or afterwards. Fitting and peening it over again would make it shorter and so over compress even a new spring. No easy way out other than a new pin/repair kit. Someone with a lathe could produce a batch of these pins for very little money.
andydeans3Posted - 24 Jun 2020 : 10:07:55
Christophe/Woody/Deggsie.

Thanks for all the info.

Woody.
Both pins are the same. Same spring, same issue.
Which Facebook page are you referring to?

I will order a pair of these assemblies, and have a go at replacing them.
If I have new assemblies, I don't mind drilling out the old pins.
Drilling out is the only way I can see of removing them.

in the short term, filing the plates will do.
Thanks for all your input guys.

Deggsie
I'm away up to Aberdeen in the next few days to see how Stig is getting on with his 96 project.
Andy


1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
1991 Nissan Figaro
deggsiePosted - 24 Jun 2020 : 09:46:51
quote:
Originally posted by andydeans3
I doubt if the spring and pin are available as spare parts ...

Andy
Christophe's photo was from the Skandix site, which is showing repair kits available, see https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/brakes/brake-calipers/repair-kit-brake-caliper-guide-bolts-front-axle-for-one-brake-caliper/1067791/
Derek

___________________________
Saab - beyond the conventional !
WoodyPosted - 23 Jun 2020 : 23:35:56
Hi Christophe, What sort of noise are you getting when you are reversing?

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