| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| UK_Sub | Posted - 26 Feb 2026 : 14:38:31
To remove my hubs so I could get new wheel bearings fitted - I took apart the whole driveshaft assembly.
I'm assuming it's going to be easier to assemble it on the bench before trying to fit it back in the car - do I assemble the whole thing, including disc brake etc - and 'slide' it back in place - or is there a better way of doing it? |
| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Dynorog | Posted - 08 Mar 2026 : 13:23:35
Well, I reconnected the CV joint to the hub. I used the cable tie idea.
Positioned on hub over the splines tapped down until passed over compressed spring and cut the tie BUT only part of the tie came out lost in the moly grease and the bowels of the cv bearing. I wasn’t taking it off again. I kept on taping the hub down until there was sufficient thread showing to put the hub plate on and, using it to draw the outer shaft fully into the hub.
There din’t seem to be any stiffness in the rotation of the joint – now lubricated by molybdenum disulphide grease with added , soon to be ground up uPVC particles.
What could go wrong.
I was going to sort out the middle shaft, build up the needle bearings and tie it all up in cling film. I bought some new needles which arrived yesterday.
Woody - Did you receive my P.M.?
Dynorog |
| Woody | Posted - 06 Mar 2026 : 16:41:45
I struggled over the 54 yrs messing with V4's when disassembling the drive shaft and CV joint.
Bought the separation tool but used to battle with compressing the spring at the splines on the driveshaft to get it to seat properly.
Never thought to use a cable tie.
Have the pliers tool now which saves some grief. |
| andydeans3 | Posted - 06 Mar 2026 : 11:08:04
Simon
There is a special pair of pliers for clamping up the boots. You get them E Bay for a few quid, or as Christophe says, you can probably manage it with a big pair of pliers. I like "special tools"
1978 LHD SAAB 96
1991 Nissan Figaro |
| christophe | Posted - 05 Mar 2026 : 11:34:11
quote:
Also, is there a special tool for tightening up those boot clamps?
A large pair of pliers usually does the trick.
Best of luck with your job. |
| UK_Sub | Posted - 02 Mar 2026 : 20:59:07
I've been told to fit the flange and use the castle nut to bolt it all together - I'll let you know how I get on! |
| Dynorog | Posted - 01 Mar 2026 : 19:23:04
I’ve done it before on my V4 back in 2018 but I can’t remember how I did it! I would have remembered if I’d taken it to my mates with a press. I think I must have just carefully tapped it on a bit and then wound up the castle nut. When it was on the car after I had put the wishbones and sssspings on. I’m obviously going to improve my recall.
Dynorog |
| UK_Sub | Posted - 01 Mar 2026 : 18:38:12
That happened to me too Dynorog - one needle bearing escaped - or was it always lost!? Thankfully I have a spare set of driveshafts - but will need to source a bearing so I don't forget it's missing (if that makes any sense).
Got to my bench today - gathered all the pieces together - removed the old boots and replaced them with new ones from Malbrad - which came with new lockrings for the inner drive shaft - so fitted it, held the inner driveshaft in a vice and added the outer driveshaft - so far so good.
Next came the knuckle housing, which did NOT want to fit, I assume I'm going to need a press of some sort?
Also, is there a special tool for tightening up those boot clamps? |
| Dynorog | Posted - 01 Mar 2026 : 09:26:43
I didn’t look at the actual seals I bought until yesterday. There is no make on them, only a tiny emblem of a key. I think that may be an USA marking to indicate that it’s a rotary seal. Not sure though. I was disappointed with seals but I’ve put one in anyway. Time will tell.
Ive drilled the dust shield screws out now. I may re thread them or not. I have some new ones, but I may leave them off.
You will see on the wanted thread that I have lost a needle roller.I took a lot of care taking the shafts out, bagged up and cable tied shaft end but still one escaped.
Cheers
Dynorog |
| Woody | Posted - 01 Mar 2026 : 01:28:19
I notice in Dynorog’s photo that the brake dust shield has been removed with seized screws still in place.
Saab saving pennies as the 1969 deluxe had 1/4”UNC hex bolts there, but my 1972 model had the pozi screws which seized.
A hammer driver chewed them up so they had to be cut and drilled out, this in the early 80’s. Hex bolts replaced them.
Those same knuckles were refurbished and installed in the Troll during the 90’s. |
| Woody | Posted - 01 Mar 2026 : 01:11:56
IIRC I bought some nitrile seals from johnsaab years back, worth checking if he still does them.
It is over 10yrs since I changed a wheel bearing, though fortunately did it at my company workshops where there was a press to drive the driveshaft out of the knuckle after removing brake disk with the hub puller. It was also first time in 54yrs that I separated the knuckle at the steering arm. I have the Saab tool for removing the bearing retainer. Pressed out the bearing and pressed in the replacement. Seals were ok so reassembled the knuckle.
Can’t quite remember how I put the drive shaft in but put disc on when knuckle was on the car.
Here it is important to ensure the slides of drive shaft engage the slots on the drive hub when winding the hub and and brake disc on with the hub nut. I use a 1” drive T bar and large socket for tightening the hub nut.
Now I have retired I don’t have access to the workshop with lifts and presses etc.
Have all this dismantling to do for de-rusting and painting all the suspension components to clear access for cutting and welding. |
| melle | Posted - 27 Feb 2026 : 20:37:14
I used SKF seals bought from an SKF dealer (i.e., hopefully genuine SKF!).
www.saabv4.com |
| Dynorog | Posted - 27 Feb 2026 : 15:00:38
I’ve bought my seals from a company called Hayley. Www.hayley-group.uk They are nitrile and I told them what the application was. They supply SKF stuff and other well known manufacturers. They are national but have a local branch near me. Not sure if you can buy on line for small quantities.
They were a good price 15.31 inc vat. For 2x inner and outer.
Cheers
Roger
Dynorog |
| melle | Posted - 27 Feb 2026 : 13:16:10
Have a browse through the parts book and the factory workshop manual, if you haven't already.
I have difficulty sourcing the right type of outer seal: https://www.saab-v4.co.uk/speedball/topic.asp?topic_id=38605
www.saabv4.com |
| UK_Sub | Posted - 26 Feb 2026 : 17:57:15
Thanks for the info and reassurance - just need to remember what goes where!? |
| Dynorog | Posted - 26 Feb 2026 : 17:14:25
This seal hadnt been put in the correct position by somoene previously
The seal is nly up to the lip of the gircular nut.
You can see where it should be by the lack of rust next to where it should seat against the shoulder of the other nearside carrier.
You can see how much deeper the seal was prior to removal of the circular nut of the other hub.
Dynorog |
