As I said at the top of this page (this post might roll it on to page 7) if the ICH came with the alloy ring the original filter will fit fine along with the rubber seal. Worthwhile for better filtering with minimal air flow instruction. Also gets rid of the annoying, to me, intake roar, that you get with these, to me again, silly little pancake filters. You'll get answers about the hose. It has been mentioned before.
quote:Originally posted by MARK DRANSFIELD the adjustment screw made almost no difference.
Which one? A. mixture or B. throttle? Have you made sure that 1. the throttle butterfly fully closes (adjust throttle linkage or adjust B.) and 2. there are no air leaks (usually at the inlet manifold or the carb base)?
Check if your idle rpm is in the 800-900rpm range when the engine is at normal operating temperature. You'll need to warm up the engine until the thermostat opens before you can do any meaningful adjustments.
Having purchased a ICH carb, what s the general recommendation of where to fit the choke cable bracket and the routing of the cable itself through the bulkhead?
I fitted a Weber 34ICH last winter to my 1975 96 V4. I bought it from Anthony at Fast Road Cars. He assured me that it would fit the V4 without issues but it turned out that the rod that actuates the trottle slightly when the choke is opened fouled the vacuum takeoff elbow for the brake servo. I managed to find a silicone elbow on eBay with a smaller OD and a tighter 90 degree bend and shortened it as much as possible so that is intruded less into the rotation space of the choke to throttle link. I then had to make up a new link from a 3mm diameter brass rod. I eventulally got one that was the correct shape after several attempts. I found that making a 3mm copper rod as a template worked well as it was easier to get the correct shape with copper which bends easier and can be rebent and annealed with a blow torch between attempts. Bending the brass rod through tight angles is a one time event as it work hardens so if you get it wrong it can't be undone. The rod is held onto the levers at each end with internal toothed lock washers with a short length of polythene tube acting as a spacer on the top lever. You need a bag of these lock washers as they are so tiny they can't be taken off without destroying them. This spacer is critical to make the rod operate in the correct plane. Time will tell if the poly tube specer will survive the heat from the engine. I may need to replace it with a brass tube in the future. As a follow up with Anthony at FRC, I sent him photos of the solution I came up with and to be fair to him he was grateful and will hopefully pass this onto future customers. I can't work out how to attach photos to these forum posts but I have loads of decent photos of the process I went through if anyone is interested. Please DM me.
Topic 
Weber 34ICH conversion
Posted - 07 Mar 2021 : 11:14:32 
