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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
3342 Posts

Posted - 12 Nov 2020 :  18:00:43 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Great work Roger! The seam sealer/ filler at the bottom of the A-pillars is probably the factory stuff, on my 95 there was a lot of it! See pics in my thread, I've redone it more or less like the factory did it before fitting the roof/ air box pressing.

www.saabv4.com
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Dynorog
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
239 Posts

Posted - 12 Nov 2020 :  18:19:25 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Thanks Melle.
In hindsight I wish I had got hold of a better air box section from somewhere and cut it off like you did. It would have made it easier to get at things.
Cheers

Dynorog
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
3342 Posts

Posted - 12 Nov 2020 :  18:32:13 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Hindsight is a very useful project management tool!

www.saabv4.com
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Dirtbiker
V4 Mad

United Kingdom
867 Posts

Posted - 12 Nov 2020 :  22:35:46 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Looking excellent Roger. Not glacial at all, people dont realise how long (it takes me anyway!) it takes to fabricate repair panels!
Keep at it!
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Dynorog
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
239 Posts

Posted - 17 Jan 2021 :  16:39:33 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Thought I should do an update on progress.
I haven't got a lot to show for the work put in since November.
I have iserted a patch on top of the o/s wheelhouse and put some holding primer on but then got distracted and went off at a tangent




I was thinking about progress and having to clean off the floor of the horrible underseal stuff, and then have to do some welding to the floor and sills, in the upside down position and couldn't face it.
I looked at rotiserie/ rollover jig but I'm a bit constrained where I'm working in the Gazeebo. My headroom to the underside of the roof latice is 1890mm and I have the car over a lift so I needed something bespoke, I decided to build one, after all we are in Lockdown.


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I have nearly finished the front stand and frame for attaching to the car.
It will certainly test my welding and I will not know if my calculations are correct until I try to roll it.
If the calcs are wrong I will modify it and roll it without the lift in place, but I hope that will not be the case.
The second photo shows the front of the car being supported by the frame - so far so good.
My next update will show Dennis rolling in mid air or in a heap on the floor!

Dynorog
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Betsy67
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
397 Posts

Posted - 18 Jan 2021 :  17:39:37 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Great work.
A rotisserie is the best way forward. Welding upside down really isnt good for both quality and your health.
How did you calculate the C of G ?
Progress on Betsy dried up mid December due to a little cycling accident- broken pelvis and hip socket !! Aching to get back in the garage. Not quite so keen to return to the bike as yet!
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Dynorog
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
239 Posts

Posted - 26 Jan 2021 :  21:16:48 Show Profile Reply with Quote
"How did you calculate the C of G ?"
I didn't.
The car was on the lift when I decided to take this little diversion and couldn't measure the weight very easily. I did try to use a caravan load cell thing that I have, which you are supposed to drive over. I jacked up the side of the car while it was on the lift and sort of stuffed it between a pad and the car.It was a bit precarious so I gave up.
I estimated the shell would be about 400kg and the front an rear readings I got were 100Kg and 70 Kg respectively. So I must be somewhere near with my guesstimate.
I had to set the pivot point at 1040 off FL. after deciding the outer rotating radius of the shell plus clearance of lift and gazebo roof.
I thought if it's a bit difficult to rotate it doesn't matter as long as I can rotate it in the space available.
















And yes it is difficuly

I have only dared rotate to 45 degrees at the moment, as it is a bit heavy, the Cof G must be higher than the 1040.(~500 off shell floor)
I have only got a stop on the front frame at the moment and I will have to move the spring bolt closer to the holding plate as it is flexing and it concerned me a bit.

I'll do another post whnn I get it to 90 degrees - all being well.
Cheers



Dynorog
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Dirtbiker
V4 Mad

United Kingdom
867 Posts

Posted - 28 Jan 2021 :  09:56:32 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Top work on the rollover jig Roger.
Look forward to seeing it fully rotated (not in a heap on the floor!)
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Dynorog
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
239 Posts

Posted - 30 Jan 2021 :  15:39:58 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Building this jig is more frightening than putting on /off a front spring.
It doesn't help being in lock-down with no one to help.

I managed to turn it through to 90 degrees eventually after bending a 1200 long 16mm
re-bar.
I decided to weld to 20x20x2 shs together and bolt them onto the stop plate.

It did the trick.
Nearly got caught out by the door hinges though as they dropped down as it rotated so I tied them back with a bungie.













Anyway managed to get it to 90 just clearing the roof structure of gazebo and top of lift.
I am going to wait for assistance until I try and do the 180 turn though. Its bloody
heavy with the pivot not being at the C of G.
I may not be able to do it though because
I think the diagonal of the shell is 8mm more than will clear the lift, hence I need the
assistance softly, softly.
The spring bolts which I moved closer to the stop plate are still bending so I may get some high tensile steel to modify them or a larger diameter bolt arrangement.
Having said that I don't want to spend much more time on the jig, that's not the main project - draining swamps and alligators come to mind.
I may just use additional props.


















So its now time to carry on with work to the car.
Its not in a heap on the floor Gareth - YET :)


I forgot to say in my last post - Good luck with your recovery Steven (Betsy 67).
Cheers

Dynorog

Edited by - Dynorog on 30 Jan 2021 15:41:36
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Wonky door
V4 Beginner

United Kingdom
88 Posts

Posted - 30 Jan 2021 :  20:57:26 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Some great work on here #128512;. We bought a rotisserie when we did the van but in the end didnt use it. We were worried as you were about controlling the rotation. Now you have it working it should make welding much easier.
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Dynorog
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
239 Posts

Posted - 18 Feb 2021 :  17:48:17 Show Profile Reply with Quote
As I mentioned I had a problem with the gate bolts I used on the roll over jig bending.
It was partly due to a roll pin being used as the retainer. I took the pin out and used a solid one, It still bent. If it was decent steel it shouldn't have done.


So I have just stuffed a 12mm suspension bolt off a Mk4 Cortina in and there is no problem now. The gate bolt was off E bay but from Ironmongery supplier. I don't know what it is but its not steel as I know it.

Well now I can turn her through 90 degrees(well 85+ degrees) I thought I had better do a bit of work on her.
I've taken off the N/S lower sill, it was holed at the rear end and around the jacking point so I bit the bullet and took the sill off. This will also allow me to view and repair the top sill more easily.





There is a lot of loose rust where the floor pan meets the upper sill the actual floor pan looks mostly OK but I need to clean up along the joint to assess the upper sill properly.

Cheers




Dynorog
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Betsy67
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
397 Posts

Posted - 28 Feb 2021 :  17:42:38 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Noticed you have a lift under your new rotisserie. How useful/beneficial is it ? Toying with buying one.
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Derek
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2019 Posts

Posted - 01 Mar 2021 :  11:15:10 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I was looking at your rotisserie and pondering the G&G issue. Perhaps for a MKII you could double up on the flat plates and have 2 lines of holes on them so you could move the body piece up and down to get closer to the balance point. Modding what you have shouldn't be too difficult. I have had a similar out of balance situation with an engine stand. It caught me unawares and could have been dangerous. A very good reason to have one with 4 wheels rather than a 3 legged one.
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Dynorog
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
239 Posts

Posted - 02 Mar 2021 :  15:12:05 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Steven : At my age I find the lift very beneficial.
It provides pretty good access but obviously bot as good as a two poster.It lifts to 1200mm, is low profile and narrow. It is also mobile but pretty heavy to wheel about.
I connect it to a winch to pull it in and out of the garage, even when the body shell is on it. The important thing to remember when using it to do a job underneath is to have the point you wish to work on at the opposite end to where the ram is.It was very usefull when it came to the removal of the rear axle and I hope it's just as use full when putting it back on.

Derek: Thanks for your ponderings. I had thought originally of having two vertical sections bolted together with variable hole settings but it was pointless because of being limited with headroom/lift clearance which is what determined my pivot point.
I hadn't thought of joining the two plates together above the pivot point though. I may try that when it is out of the gazebo it would be easier to retro fit I think than messing about with the supports on the car.

Cheers

Dynorog
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Dynorog
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
239 Posts

Posted - 13 Mar 2021 :  15:35:38 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Well I have now cleaned off every speck of underseal (I think!) and started treating some sections where I'm not anticipating doing any welding with Bilt Hamber products to at least add some temporary protection.
Note, I think its been jacked up in the correct place at sometime with a trolley jack but with no timber between.


I have put the o/s sill on. I did it basically in the manner that Gareth suggested in my post on sills in the Gen Tech section. the ,
after a little fettling I clamped it on against the top sill and then brought the lift up to put pressure on the floor/sill connection.
I drilled through top sill and floor and plug welded downwards, working out from roughly the center point.






In the center if the sill where the large internal floor crossmember is and a couple of other spots I couldn't drill from the top so I drilled the sill beforehand and plugged from there.



I was a bit concerned with the penetration so I may run a few lengths of bead on the edge of the sill/floor joint.






Ive still got to weld the ends up but Ill do that when I've finished the boot floor repairs

Derek I looked at being able to use another plate on the rollover jig for adjustment but unfortunately I can't, the spindle of the jig is fixed to the frame in the car and the plate is welded to the spindle.

Cheers

Dynorog

Edited by - Dynorog on 13 Mar 2021 15:46:22
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